Dan Fisher’s reflection on his Grampians Tour 2018

Dan Fisher’s reflection on his Grampians Tour 2018

Being back in little old Canberra is always a bit of a drainer after a trip down to the Grampians. Pre-trip I had written up a tick list of about 15 boulders I wanted to get on, not just for this trip but future trips as well. I also had two major goals in mind- flash a double-digit climb and also send a V13.

Climbing is a funny sport; we spend countless hours driving to remote and beautiful locations only to get stuck focusing all our time and energy onto a 1m wide pathway to the top of a boulder. We don’t look for the easiest way to the top of the boulder but the hardest most aesthetically pleasing point in which we are able to drag ourselves up, only to climb back down and look for another line that matches our ridiculously specific set of standards. If it doesn’t match these criteria the climb is boring, not a classic, sharp, un-enjoyable, doesn’t match my body type, too hard or any other of the plethora of excuses we make up on the spot. My favorite excuse is that I am too weak, especially in the Grampians as the rock there is pretty hard to fault.

Grip Master V10

I had an amazing trip, not just because of the rock but because this was the first trip to the Grampians in which I wasn’t coming out of an injury/break/outbreak of weakness. I was able to focus in on a few key meters of rock and haul myself to the top of quite a few classics. I accomplished half of my tick list, and one of my 2 goals which means I’ll be back down there as soon as the weather starts getting cool again. I got lucky on a few sends and managed to flash quite a few amazing lines.

 

Tick list for the trip:

Roobix Cube                                                    V12 Flash

Last Action Hiro                                              V12

In the Cloud                                                     V11 Flash

So You Think You Can Dance                      V11

Point and Shoot                                               V11

100 Pound Club                                              V10 Flash

Grip Master                                                      V10

Etch-a-Sketch                                                   V10

 

Etch- A-Sketch V10

A nice anecdote that I would like to finish with is something that a friend mentioned to me while we were training. We were talking about the mindset of top-level athletes in other sports. Top-level athletes in every aspect of their chosen sport aren’t seen to be making excuses like I find myself doing, instead they try their hardest every single time – even when they are just training. When I think back to every hard climb or boulder I have done, I remember trying as hard as I possibly could – which is something I consciously strove towards throughout my recent trip to the Grampians. So to the smart ass at the crag that offers the sarcastic advice- “Maybe you should just try harder’”, you’re right, we should all just try harder. However, instead of telling people to try harder I am testing a different approach. – I explain this concept alongside a great athlete who is always seen to be trying his hardest– Roger Federer. Thus when you hear me shouting encouragement at the gym or crag from now on I’ll be telling people to “Roger it”. Because if we all focused and tried as hard as Roger Federer does every single attempt; I am pretty certain we will all be sitting on top of a 1 meter wide pathway that’s not only aesthetically pleasing but matches all of our ridiculously specific standards.

Roger that.

Daniel

Dan Fisher is apart of the La Sportiva and Edelrid Australian climbing teams. He is know for his hard first ascents at Nowra and many of his routes are still waiting for second ascents! Not only on rock has he pushed the limit, but he has national titles in both lead and bouldering to his name. He is one of Australia’s best new generation climbers, and is one of only a handful of Aussie climbers to crank that hard grade of 34 (8c+)….

DMM – BREAST CANCER AWARENESS

DMM – BREAST CANCER AWARENESS

 

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month

Expedition Equipment has teamed up with DMM to produce an Australian exclusive limited edition of pink climbing hardware and giving $2 of each sale to the National Breast Cancer Foundation (NBCF). The National Breast Cancer Foundation is the only national body that funds life-changing breast cancer research with money raised entirely by the Australian public. For Australian women, the most common cancer is breast cancer, with eight women dying from the disease each day. Research is the only way to prevent deaths and improve how breast cancer is diagnosed, managed and treated.

By funding only world-class research, NBCF is working towards a goal of zero deaths from breast cancer by 2030.

Together we can beat breast cancer, support the cause and purchase the pink DMM gear from these stores:

 

Climb-in-Gym Tour 2018

Climb-in-Gym Tour 2018

Climb-in-Gym Tour 2018 is the Test & Feel Tour

organized by La Sportiva in 68 of the most famous climbing gyms in Europe & Australia!

It will be your chance to discover the latest La Sportiva rebooted climbing shoes:

Solution Men, Solution Woman & Otaki.

 

Are you ready?

 VILLAWOOD // SYDNEY INDOOR CLIMBING GYM // 4th SEPT

KATOOMBA // CAMP STREET // 5th SEPT

ST PETERS // SYDNEY INDOOR CLIMBING GYM // 6th SEPT

BRISBANE // ROCKSPORTS // 11th SEPT

ST LEONARDS // CLIMB FIT // 13th SEPT

BRUNSWICK // NORTH WALLS // 4th OCT

NEWCASTLE // PULSE // 10th OCT

CENTRAL COAST // PULSE // 17th OCT

CANBERRA // BLOCHAUS // 19th OCT

Lowe Alpine – NEW Aeon

Lowe Alpine – NEW Aeon

AEON

Welcome to The Aeon – A new series of lightweight, versatile, technical daypacks. A go anywhere, do anything pack, take it hiking, mountain biking, climbing or trail running. It will even stand up to the daily commute. Pick up an Aeon and find your footing in a world filled with Infinite Possibilities™.

The Aeon range is available now from a select number of our most revered independent stockists.

 

THE AEON RANGE

 

FEATURES IN FOCUS

AIR-CONTOUR BACK SYSTEM
FLEXION™ HARNESS
MULTI-LOCK TOOL™

“The Flexion™ harness has taken many months and hundreds of development samples to get to where we wanted to be – the result is something that is truly innovative and redefines pack harness construction. Allied with the rest of the Air Contour back system and great packs that mix up style and outstanding performance we believe we now have a range that can be category defining.”

TIM FISH | BRAND DIRECTOR

Outdoor Research Scotty Hawker’s UTMB Journey

Outdoor Research Scotty Hawker’s UTMB Journey

Outdoor Research in it’s element at UTMB, words from Scotty Hawker OR brand ambassador.

OR Helium II Jacket – The Perfect Light Weight Answer

First and foremost the Helium II Jacket was in it’s element in the severe weather conditions at race. I had a back up jacket with my crew just incase the Helium soaked through with all the snow and rain that we had, but I never had to change over jackets throughout the 21hr 55mins I was travelling around Mont Blanc. I knew it was a great piece of kit but this even surprised me! My crew were also loving the bright lemongrass colour as they were able to easily pick me out within the pack of runners early on at checkpoints. This is the go to rain jacket for ultra running, and I would recommend the Helium to all that venture into the sport. Its not the lightest jacket out there, but only a few extra grams of tape sealing and more durable fabrics it does the job and more…

Outdoor Research Sensor 150 Gloves – A Must Have

A big concern for me was cold hands! So alternating throughout the race between the PL 150 Sensor and the PL Base Sensor gloves enabled me to help regulate my body temp and stay warm. Through the night the PL150 were more than up to the job and then through the day the Base Sensor kept things comfortable and also prevented any rubbing from wet hiking pole straps! I’m not a big user of gloves when running as the cool temps both ready phase me normally, but the extreme conditions at this year’s UTMB I wasn’t going to leave the start without a set of the perfect gloves!

Echo Ubertube

The final item that was part of my kit was the Echo Ubertube. Like the Echo Tee the material is a dream to wear and the Ubertube is such a versatile and comfortable piece of kit to have. It was instrumental in helping me keep warm and also cool off where the outside temps ranged from -10 up to 12 deg. I will not be leaving home without the Ubertube no matter the weather conditions….

There’s not really a better test for trail running equipment than at the worlds most competitive trail ultramarathon and I can’t speak highly enough of how the gear performed!

 

Scotty Hawker OR brand ambassador. finished 11th place at this year’s UTMB in 21hrs 55mins! The 2017 edition was the most competitive ultramarathon in the history of the sport…..

Read Scotty journey around Monte Blanc here

New Product – Sterling WorkPro Static Rope

New Product – Sterling WorkPro Static Rope

For the WorkPro, Sterling have developed an entirely new approach to rope construction—one that makes for balanced elongation in the core and sheath so they share the load evenly. This makes the WorkPro Series stronger than other ropes of similar construction while retaining a small but important amount of elongation.

Sterling’s newest static rope is the direct result of a rigorous in-use testing and evaluation process with rope access professionals working in variable and harsh conditions. The final design incorporates their feedback and benefits from Sterling’s extensive experience working with nylon/ polyester mixed material ropes.

  • Polyester Sheath gives great durability including abrasion and UV
  • Nylon Core gives suppleness for good handling and tying knots etc.
  • All diameters are EN 1891 Type A & ANSI Z133 Certified
  • 10mm & 11mm are NFPA 1983: Technical while 12.5mm is NFPA 1983: General Use

11mm is now available from stock and the 10mm & 12.5mm diameters are available to order.

WorkPro has a great range of applications in Industrial, Rescue and Arbor settings. For a quick overview in this video Matt Hunt, Sterling Work Market Manager tells us about the features and benefits of the WorkPro static rope series that are ideal for rope access technicians.

There is a video for Rescue Technicians available HERE and for Aborists HERE

10 mm WorkPro

Specifications – 67g/m, MBS Rating 29.0kN

The 10mm (3/8″) WorkPro is ideal for Mountain and Backcountry Rescue Teams.

This rope is dual-certified, compatible with recreational climbing gear, light and packable. Uses: Rappelling, Anchoring, Light-Duty Rigging.

11 mm WorkPro

Specifications – 83g/m, MBS Rating 36.0kN

11mm covers all the bases very well indeed. Sterling’s newest static rope is the direct result of a rigorous in-use testing and evaluation process with rope access professionals working in variable and harsh conditions. The final design incorporates their feedback and benefits from Sterling’s extensive experience working with nylon/ polyester mixed material ropes.

12.5mm WorkPro

Specifications – 110g/m, MBS Rating 47.0kN

The 12.5mm (1/2″) WorkPro is ideal for Arborists, Window Washers, and Rescue Teams.

Arbor: This kernmantle rope is certified to ANSI Z133 and EN 1891. Compatible with popular hardware for climbing and descent systems, this rope is also easier to grip. Uses: Climbing line for SRS and MRS.

Industrial: This rope is strong and durable for Industrial rescue and safety applications, and is dual-certified to EN 1891 Type A and NFPA 1983 General Use. Uses: Tower Climbing, Window Cleaning, Stand-by Rescue Teams and Confined Space.

Rescue: This rope is certified to NFPA 1983 General Use, and compatible with most standard rescue devices and equipment. Uses: Standard Main and Belay System, Twin-Tensioned System.

 

La Sportiva Gore-Tex®

La Sportiva Gore-Tex®

NEW Core High & Primer Low GTX

mountain-hiking

Gore-Tex® Surround™ Technology allows 360 degree breathability

CORE HIGH GTX

An over the ankle, all synthetic trail assault vehicle with highly breathable Gore-Tex Surround designed for moving fast on all types of hiking terrain. The shoe adopts solutions that are part of La Sportiva’s mountain DNA combining them to technology and features deriving from the world of mountain running, approach and mountaineering.

Core_GTX_Surround_Woman_ice_blue__14SIB_

  • Innovative Nano-Cell™ Technology upper wraps the foot in protection while allowing maximum breathability and waterproof protection
  • Gore-Tex® Surround™ Technology allows 360 degree breathability
  • STB™ Technology stabilizes the foot by wrapping the midsole and unifying the midsole with the upper for the perfect locked-down fit
WEIGHT: (M) 830g (W) 720g
LAST: Tempo
UPPER: AirMesh / Nano-Cell™ direct injection /PU Leather
LINING: Gore-Tex® Surround™
MIDSOLE: Compression Molded EVA / TPU Inserts
SOLE:  Vibram® Nano with Impact Brake System™
SIZES: (M) 38 - 47.5 (W) 36-43 (half sizes)
COLOR:  (M) Grey/Green (W) Grey/Ice Blue
RRP: $279.95

RTEmagicC_Gore-Tex_Surround_icona.jpg RTEmagicC_NanoCells_icona.jpg RTEmagicC_Impact_Brake_System_02.jpg

RTEmagicC_OrtholiteNero_icona.jpg  RTEmagicC_Vibram_10.jpg

PRIMER LOW GTX

The Primer GTX is the low cut shoe dedicated to the world of mountain/fast hiking: fast hiking with light packs off road and is fully waterproof with the new Gore-Tex Surround. The shoe adopts solutions that are part of La Sportiva’s mountain DNA combining them to technology and features deriving from the world of mountain running, approach and mountaineering.

Primer_GTX_Surround_Woman_yellow-mid_grey__14OYM_

  • Innovative Nano-Cell™ Technology upper wraps the foot in protection while allowing maximum breathability and waterproof protection
  • Gore-Tex® Surround™ Technology allows 360 degree breathability
  • STB™ Technology stabilizes the foot by wrapping the midsole and unifying the midsole with the upper for the perfect locked-down fit
WEIGHT: (M) 780g (W) 600g
LAST: Tempo
UPPER: AirMesh / Nano-Cell™ direct injection /PU Leather
LINING: Gore-Tex® Surround™
MIDSOLE: Compression Molded EVA / TPU Inserts
SOLE:  Vibram® Nano with Impact Brake System™
SIZES: (M) 38 - 47.5 (W) 36-43 (half sizes)
COLOR:  (M) Grey/Green (W) Grey/Yellow
RRP: $249.95

RTEmagicC_Gore-Tex_Surround_icona.jpg RTEmagicC_Impact_Brake_System_02.jpg RTEmagicC_NanoCells_icona.jpg

RTEmagicC_OrtholiteNero_icona.jpg RTEmagicC_Vibram_10.jpg

La Sportiva – Genius

La Sportiva – Genius

The Genius climbing shoe uses the innovative No-Edge technology by La Sportiva and features a lace-up closure system.

It uniquely combines the sensitivity and performance of the “no-edge” technology to the comfort, precision and volume adaptability of lace-up models. This particular construction method allows for the perfect adaptation to different types of rock deriving from the larger surface area in contact with the holds, while comfort is guaranteed by the lacing system that allows for perfect regulation of inner volumes and wraps the foot snugly and precisely, providing even greater support. The Laspoflex midsole combined to the P3 Patent System in fact, provides support for the climber even if the shoe is not worn excessively tightly. This construction feature united to the lacing system makes the shoe adaptable to all types of foot, both narrow and wide fit. It is the ideal choice for use on rock walls, it can be worn for long periods thanks to the enhanced comfort features but it is also ideal for use on the boulders thanks to the grippy heel. Genius is the natural evolution of the climbing species.


Upper: Suede leather combined with microfiber. Slip lasted.

Lining: None.

Fit: Medium.

Midsole: Laspoflex 1,1 combined to P3 System.

Sole: Vibram® XSGrip2 – 3 mm.

Patents: P3 System (Permanente Power Platform)

Sizes: 32 – 46 (including half sizes)

Weight: 440 g (pair, size 39)

Reel Rock 2018

Reel Rock 2018

REEL ROCK 13 – LANDING NOVEMBER 2018

 

This November, get ready for climbing’s greatest stories, stars, and sends. REEL ROCK 13 delivers jaw­dropping action, soulful journeys and rollicking humor in a brand new collection of the year’s best climbing films. From Olympic training centres to the frozen landscape of Antarctica, explore the cutting edge of climbing with four new films. Featuring Adam Ondra, Madaleine Sorkin, Alex Honnold, Conrad Anker and many more.

 

Age of Ondra

Every so often an athlete comes along who redefines their sport. Adam Ondra, the 25­year old Czech crusher , is exploring a new realm of human potential in climbing. Late last year , he established a benchmark for the sport; a 5.15d in Norway he dubbed Silence (as in, drop the mic). On the heels of this ascent, we follow Adam from his home in the Czech Republic, across Europe to North America, as he innovates new training methods, establishes upper echelon first ascents, and attempts to be the first person to send 5.15 on the first try.

Age of Ondra is a rare, intimate journey with one of the greatest athletes at the peak of his powers.

 

Up to Speed

When climbing was announced as part of the 2020 Olympics, it was a monumental occasion for the sport. But many climbers were shocked to learn that one of three combined events required to compete for a medal is… speed climbing. REEL ROCK correspondent Zachary Barr looks into this little­known and seldom practiced sub­discipline of the sport, and the role it will play in shaping climbing’s future. Barr’s journey from the U.S. to France (the birthplace of modern speed climbing) to South Asia (it’s actually huge there) culminates at an international competition in Moscow , where speed demons race up a 15­metre wall in less than six seconds.

 

The Valley of the Moon

Wadi Rum, known as the V alley of the Moon, is a vast landscape of sandstone walls in the desert of Jordan. Hoping to lure international climbers, two Israelis team up with a local Bedouin guide to establish an 1,800­foot route, eventually recruiting American climber Madaleine Sorkin to help achieve their dream. The Valley of the Moon explores the importance of climbing as a way to cross cultural barriers, build friendship and chase adventure in one of the most breathtaking regions on earth.

 

Queen Maud Land

A dream team of six elite climbers mount an expedition to one of the world’s last great climbing frontiers: the remote frozen towers of Antarctica. Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker tackle a new route on the 3,600­foot Ulvetanna; Savannah Cummins and Anna Pfaff summit the towering Holtanna; and Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright make a harrowing and hilarious blitz of 13 different spires spread across the ice field, including one pitch that Honnold calls “the scariest I have ever led.” Queen Maud Land ­­ the name of this icy region ­­ showcases a stunning, rarely visited wilderness, and the suffering and vision needed to climb at the bottom of the world.

 

Stay tuned here and to the Reel Rock Australia Facebook Page for more information!

 

 

Reel Rock “Valley Uprising”

Reel Rock “Valley Uprising”

If you missed the Australian Reel Rock Tour in 2014reelrock-logo

The Valley Uprising digital download +bonus features is available now!

vimeo.com/ondemand/valleyuprising

Check out the half century of wild vertical hijinks, including this scene of Warren Harding topping out on the Dawn Wall in 1970!